Is there any problem using 1/4″ ply to build up an existing plank wood subfloor? The planks are 7-1/2″w x 3/4″ set at 45 degrees diagonal to the joists. I want to use 1/4″ to make the new floor level with flooring in the adjacent room i.e. want a level transition.
Will the thin 1/4″ ply create any unforeseen issues, even though I’m relying on it only for leveling? If its Kosher, then how would you attach the ply? 1″ fully threaded screws every 6″ on the edge and 8-10″ in the field?
* the new hardwood (going over the planks+1/4 ply) is 3/4″ solid hickory.
* after reading other posts on the subject of sub-floors, I’ve decided NOT to use glue between the ply and planks, and NOT to nail the new ply through to the joists.
i have a ice machine,charged with 30oz. 404a, suction pressure 25 psi. temp -10. should super heat be around 20 deg. above saturation temp.
For a ductless heating cooling system like the Mitsubishi, can an installer comment on the relative efficiency of having a dedicated single zone…
Hi there, new here, so bear with me, hopefully I didn’t miss something in my search.
What I’m wanting to do is erect a wooden fence on a small concrete wall. I’d only like it to stick up above the ground about 6 inches, and be at least 10-12 inches into the ground (stop a puppy that has a tendency to dig). It would be about 8 inches wide.
What I don’t know, is the specifics. I live in Saskatchewan, and am unsure about depth, or a footing underneath of it due to frost? Would that affect something like this? Or if I reinforce along the length with rebar would I be okay if built to that 10-12″ depth on top of crushed stone?
It would obviously have “piers” down 24-36″ every 8′ at the fence post locations.
Thoughts, concerns, ideas?
Does anyone have an idea of what I can use to fill the seam a little better and make it waterproof. The seam is 2 feet away from the sink. How can I protect it from a spill or when cleaning it with a wet rag. The piece were connected with Titebond 3 which is waterproof however this is a small gap, less than 1/32 of an inch. That is the closest I could get them lined up together. I was thinking of just putting a strip of scotch tape? The seam is not really that big or deep to get a product to fill it.
Thanks for any help in advanced
I added four projects to the Wall of Pride, as shown on CB.com. Check it out!…
As a homeowner I am going to have a TXV and filter dryer replaced with new refrigerant.
Where would I measure the the temperature…
We live in Massachusetts and had our roof replaced this past September. I was told that the roofer was putting down a 6′ wide ice dam membrane but with all the snow we had this winter, I had some pretty bad ice dams and water leaked into the house in four different places. Without ripping up shingles, is there a way to find out if the membrane was actually installed? Thanks for the help!
I have a server running Windows Server 2012 with Honeywell WEBS AX Supervisor software installed on it. Everything was working fine until recently…
I had a 1/2″ line split from my main supply in the garage that runs into my indoor fireplace (which is rarely used). I plan on heating my garage this winter, so I tee’d off a stick to that, as well as ran a 20′ length to the opening of my garage doors so that it could feed my burner that I use to make beer.
It’s a pretty large burner, rated with propane and a 30psi reg. up to 200k btu.
Amazon.com : Bayou Classic BG14 Banjo Burner 10 inch diameter : Grill Parts : Patio, Lawn & Garden (http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-BG14-Burner-diameter/dp/B0009JXYTG)
That being said, I was using just that setup before I ran these pipes, and it would heat my 26 gallon kettle to a rolling boil pretty easily.
I bought this to convert the burner to NG, but do not have a regulator (which I was under the impression that you didn’t need, although in the directions it says something about a reg):
HURRICANE NATURAL GAS CONVERSION VALVE | William’s Brewing (http://www.williamsbrewing.com/HURRICANE-NATURAL-GAS-CONVERSION-VALVE-P2214.aspx)