Rust Question

I hope this is the right section. I’m in school and the section i am on now is called ‘lithium bromide absorption systems’.

Now what has me baffled is in this section i read it says in a brand new system there will be a film/layer of rust on the inside of the ‘vessels’ as they put it.

Now what i can not understand for any reason whatsoever is why would there be rust there? I mean if it’s new/straight from the factory/manufacturer why would there be rust on it? I have to do a lot more studying to get a better understanding on how these systems work but i read that and it just makes no sense to me. Thanks in advance for any information.

Where to connect C wire to?

I just bought an ecobee3 thermostat. My current thermostat is only using 4 wires, but it has an extra unused one (the green one that’s wrapped around the cable). My question is where do I connect the green wire to to make it my C wire since I don’t have 5 terminals inside my HVAC.

Here are a few pictures including a diagram: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

The unit is 15 years old and I tried to reach out to the company but they switch away from HVAC and can’t help.

Thanks in advance!

What am I doing wrong? (Wiring outside light)

I have an outdoor motion-sensing light that is worn out from age, so I tried to replace it today. I bought a new light (SKU 248-593 from Home Depot) and wired it in accordance with it’s instructions, yet the light won’t come on. I used a voltage detector to confirm that the wires are HOT and passing voltage, and the light bulb is good.

Attaching an image to this post failed, so you can see the image of my wiring job here: View image: 20151128 182239

I connected white-white, black-black, and ground-ground. I’m color blind, so maybe the black-back is actually black-red. If so, how do I properly wire this light, as it only has a black and white wire?

NOTE – there is an additional wire in the image, its from the old motion sensor which was external. The new sensor is built into the light. This additional wire has no voltage flowing through it.

Control board for a Bryant 80 plus

I have a Bryant 80 plus, Model 331AAVO24065, Serial 2894A24625.

The LED Code Status was reading that "replace Control"

I told my heating contractor this and he picked up (and I paid for) a White Rogers Model 50M61-843 control board.

However when he dropped for the first trip, he advised me the control board, does not have to be changed. Furnace broke down 2 days after this, with the same code. On his second trip he said it may be the flame sensor. It has broken down again today (I reset it by turning breaker off and on), with the same LED code.

I cannot understand why the contractor has not changed the control if this is the code reading. The only reason I can think of now, is maybe the heating contractor has maybe picked up the wrong control and thus the reason for not installing it.

Can someone advise me if the White Rogers model number is correct for this control?

Is there anything I am missing? I sure as heck am not going to repair it myself.

Thanks beforehand for looking.

Installing tiles on unlevel floor

Here is my story. A heated tile floor was installed in our kitchen using ditra less than 2 years ago. Within 6 mos. the grout started crumbling/coming out. The contractor came in, said the group was probably mixed wrong, tried to fix it by scraping the grout out and in the process damaged the tile. They offered to re-lay the whole floor. They removed the tile, wires, ditra and undercoat (pretty well down to the subfloor). They then installed new ditra, new heated floor wires, and put a scratch coat over top. The tile guy (not from the contractors crew, but from the tile store) came in today, used his handy dandy laser level, and refused to lay the tile because the floor was unlevel in several places (possibly because part of the room is an addition?). There is a sight line from one end of the room to the other so the tile must be perfectly straight. He said along that line the floor level goes up, down and then up again over the span of 10 feet. He actually tried laying one row of tiles, but only got half way along and would go no further. He didn’t want to take responsibility for the job because he knew he couldnt do it right. Said the floor should have been leveled properly in the first place. So he removed the tile he had layed and left. I intend to tell the contractor and the tile store to work it out among themselves, but I worried if it looks bad when it is done I will have no recourse. Its not like I am paying the contractor; the money for this job is coming out of his own pocket, which is probably why he is rushing to get it done. So, my questions are:

1) Should he have re-leveled the floor before installing the ditra?

2) Is there any way, other than tearing it all out again, to resolve this issue? Note: the ditra and heated floor is already down

3) If he gets another tiler to do it and it doesn’t look right, should I expect him to fix it again ( I know, seems like a no-brainer, but I will admit I am picky)

3) What is my recourse if he refuses?

Goodman 200% Airflow Spec Changes

I have a Goodman 40,000 Btu 96% ecm motor furnace ready to install. When I ordered the furnace I checked the spec sheet. The furnace I received had completely different specs. Every airflow value on the table was multiplied by exactly 1.96 but the temperatures were unchanged. I have degrees in physics and engineering, so I know this is not possible.

For example the old spec sheet shows a 61F degree change with an airflow of 581 cfm. The update sheet shows a 61F degree change with an air flow of 1139 cfm

The old and new spec sheets still show the same temperature rise range of 35 – 65 in degrees F. Also the same output BTUs

All of the other size furnaces have values that are unchanged from the old to new spec sheets.

I checked the values with equation (output Btu)/((change in temp)x(1.08))=(airflow in cfm). All of the other sizes of furnaces give the right values but for the 40,000 Btu furnace the values are off by a factor of 1.96. The same errors are on spec sheets for both the upflow and downflow.

The distributer said "specs change thats just the way it is." I could understand 20% but not 200%.

I know that ecm motors don’t like pushing against a high static pressure. I don’t think most systems could handle a doubling of airflow.

Goodman tech support said something seems off. They left a message with the Product Specialist, but no one has called me back.

I know Goodman must have made a production error. I am sending the furnace back.

How come Goodman isn’t flooded with calls from distributers and techs? Don’t most installers read the manuals? Don’t most installers notice when the Temperature rise is half of what it is supposed to be?

Any suggestions or questions would be appreciated.

Thanks Eric

How to fix this table

Hi all, hoping I can find some help with a problem I’m having here. I inherited this beautiful table from my grandparents but the table isn’t level and is getting worse. The problem seems to come from the fact that one of the legs is splitting. I know nothing about woodwork but the little bit of advice I have gotten from people I know is to use wood glue and a clamp. That’s the most I’ve gotten and I really don’t know whether to take it as gospel or where to run with it if that’s what I need. Was wondering if someone could tell me what I should buy specifically and give me a step by step on what to do here. I would really like to keep this table, not just because it’s gorgeous but for the memories as well.

I’ve included some pictures here of the table, the leg, and a close up of the split if that helps. Thanks in advance.

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