Sometimes when we go to shower, the water may or may not be hot… maybe warm. Then again it could be at proper temp. Eventually, I though, maybe the thermostat isnt coming on as soon as it should as the water temp drops. Therefore, its letting the water temp drop too low before the thermostat tells the burner to kick on & heat the water.
So, I started going to the tub, turn only the hot water on, run out about 5 or 10 gallons, which would run more fresh cold water into the water heater, therefore kicking on the burner. In a few minutes I go back & take a hot shower. I think the water temp is dropping 10 degrees or more before the thermostat tells the burner to kick on.
I do have the temp turned up pretty high because I was not getting hot water. There is only two of us so, we only wash clothes etc once per week, on the weekends. So, during the week, we don’t use hot water very much, especially during the day. Since we dont use hot water, the water temp drops & the thermostat doesnt come on as soon as it should, allows the water temp to drop too low before the thermostat kicks on to heat the water to the desired temp, therefore, we have only warm water.
My question is, is there a way for me to adjust the amount that the water temp drops before the burner kicks on. And/or, do you think that’s my problem? Maybe another issue? Maybe thermostat is bad etc?
CUPE Local 79 says a work-to-rule campaign will continue Monday, with both sides unwilling to force labour disruption.
The oil needed changing do to analysis
Model # MI403T6EN12
Water heater provided plenty of hot water for showers the past 10 years. All of a sudden, it now is a struggle to get through a shower with enough. Shower doesn’t have a mix valve, separate valves for hot and cold. I’ve checked the sink mix valves and they are good. I suspect the thermostat gas valve on the water heater isn’t working right. I’ll probably replace the water heater since it’s over 10 years old, but wanted to ask what else I can check or test?
Question # 2… Is it possible for a dip tube to be installed on the hot water outlet of the tank? I ask because while looking at the unit, I see who ever installed it has the cold supply hooked to the side labeled for hot. They did cross out the hot label and wrote cold. Just curious if they installed the dip tube on that side so it would work correctly.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Anyway, I understand the one and TG are different applications, and have different pros and cons. Just wondering from you gents who have one or the other your feelings.
I do strictly industrial and commercial if that changes anything.
Why would I want one of these if I have an E4 you may ask, well, I’m thinking that I’ll use it more, as I can stick either one in my Veto MB and always have it with me. My E4 is considerably more expensive so I seldom break it out.
Anyway, any thoughts appreciated!
I own a Maytag front loading washing machine (MAH6500AWW), and I am having an issue with the draining cycle.
The issue is that when the machine pumps the drain water out of the hose into the drain pipe, the drain pipe overflows seemingly not able to handle the volume of water being pumped. A decent amount of the water will go down the drain, but the remainder backs up, and pours out on the floor.
The obvious answer would be a clogged drain (which it still might be), but other items attached to that drain seem to work fine. I will be renting a power snake tomorrow to attempt to root out that issue.
Could there be an issue with the machine? Could the pump be failing, thereby expelling the drain water at too much speed/pressure.