Kairak condensing units

Hey guys I have never worked with a Kairak condensing system before. Its a big condensing unit with like 3 compressors in it. two walk in coolers and a walk in freezer with some cook line equipment share this ‘rack’ system they call in here in TN. I replaced and expansion valve because of freezing up and low pressure. No luck with the new TXV I checked all 4 evaps in the walk in coolers and they all are running the same. about 0 deg saturation on suction and 90 deg on the head side.404A, Another complaint their having is the walk in freezer with 2 evaps is running about 20 deg. Ive asked my manager if the system could be low on charge he said no the receiver on the condenser is just over40 percent full. Anyone work on these before?
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Poor sealing fridge door gasket.

Might there be a tradesman’s trick for getting aftermarket gaskets to seal properly. I have a fridge that I’m told had this gasket replaced about 5 years ago. Even at that time the gasket fit was as you see it in the attached images. They’ve made no previous attempt to get a better fit. I just looked at it and the installation looks proper — The gasket simply seems like it has no extension (accordion effect) at the two corners.

The poor seal caused much condensation both inside and out. Unfortunately this is taking its toll in the form of minor isolated corrosion (as seen in pic) along with a constant mildew problem. This Kenmore (#2539768481) is probably 12-15 years old and, while still in otherwise very good condition, I’m not sure investing in a $100+ genuine gasket is worth it.

Any tricks-of-the-trade appreciated.

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Building inspection process for a deck?

Hello all, I am in the final stages of designing a deck for my house using the IRC 2012 guide (some changes to 2015 IRC), and am about to submit for permits. This is the first time I have had to deal with a building inspector and permitting process so I am unsure how in depth I should be taking this. I have designed it adhering to code thus far, however I am now seeing areas were the code is a inconvenience. My thoughts are that I may be overestimating the level of scrutiny the inspector with apply, and how much leniency they give to slight inconsistencies. I am in New Jersey, and my district has adopted the 2015 IRC code. I feel as if when I am looking through pictures of decks online, I see so many code violations that would make my life so much easier. Such as…

-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2×10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2×10, which by code would only allow a .75″ step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm

2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft

-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?

-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?

-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?

Thank you guys, I really need some advice here

Aint No Sheriffs Star…. lol

That Star of David thing….. thats something that also should be setting off alarms in peoples heads…..

Its not the fact that Trump is trying to tie Hillary to jewish cash…. but its the fact that Trump used that image that they got from a white supremacist post…… and reused it….

Do you want someone that dang stupid sitting in the white house ??? The guy is one ignorant sack of doodie.

Trump can say what he wants about the star….. but man… it doesnt take a 3 yr old to fiqure out what they are trying to say with the star and the pile of cash….

Maybe the US can get Mossad to deal with Trump…… in their own special way…. I know if I was in government… I would at least be considering that option…. no matter which side of the table I was sitting on.

Removing / replacing silicone caulk

We have a stainless steel sink (undermount) attached to a granite countertop. Over the years, the silicone caulk no longer creates a tight seal between the sink and the counter…therefore water is able to run down into the cabinet. The sink doesn’t feel loose, but it appears to have ‘sagged’ over the years. Should I remove the old caulk before applying new? I’m guessing the answer to that is yes, but what is the best method to remove the old caulk??

Thanks in advance for any advice!